2019 AU-NZ: New Zealand Uretiti to Auckland April 11 - 12

Happy start to year 60 Yolanda! (59yo today, April 11 - or maybe tomorrow, as we are across the date line - a 43 hr birthday, really). The day started with a gorgeous sunrise at the beach below Uretiti camp. Bob made breakfast and had a bird-day card to give, along with the birthday song. Love big!

We finished packing up camp just as the rain started - three more days of the wet stuff are predicted, with another heavy deluge for the west coast of the south island (similar to the March 26 rain storm that resulted in the Waiho bridge near Franz Joseph Glacier being taken out by boulders mobilized by the sudden water force).

In the town of Whangarei, about nine minutes north of Uretiti camp, we stopped for our last laundry load of our trip. Across the street from the laundromat was a fruit and vegetable shop, so Yolanda zipped over to find a "feijoa" to try out. We've been seeing farm stands for the past week promoting "new season feijoa" and were compelled to find out more. For instance, is it a fruit or vegetable? Where is it grown? The shop owner gave Yolanda a feijoa, no charge upon hearing her interest in this food, and told her that feijoa is a favourite fruit of the season on the north island of New Zealand. We found Web sites that describe how to grow, harvest and use the fruit in cuisine. Chutney and salsa are two savory uses; in baking, feijoa can be made into a crumble or loaf (similar to rhubarb); and it originates from South America. Bob declined trying it, so this report is from Yolanda: "Oh yum! It's flavour is a cross between ripe pear and tomatillo, and it smells wonderful, similar to pineapple."

"Hunderwasser House" in Vienna, Austria has a connection with "Train Town", or New Zealand's northland town of Kawakawa, where we passed through April 11 in the late morning. The architect-artist who designed the Vienna apartment complex, which Yolanda specifically visited in 1991 to see his application of "the curve of nature over the straight line", lived the last 30 years of his life in New Zealand and designed a distinctive public building block for Kawakawa. Hunderwasser had been to New Zealand when he was in his early 40s with an art exhibition of his work and eventually moved to Kaurinu, not far from Kawakawa. He became involved in championing Maori community rights and passed away in 2000, age 71. His decorative tilework finishing approach inspired other works in Kawakawa, including a tiled concrete couch, which Bob thinks would be great on our property. Kawakawa is a quaint place to stop, with its centre-of-town functioning antique steam train, and artistic feel throughout.

Our rainy-day lunch stop was in the town of Kaitaia, at a Turkish food spot. Deliciousness, and a square of complementary birthday baklava, fresh from the oven! How soon, we wondered, will we be in Turkey, visiting the colourful markets of Istanbul? Across the street was a Maori-run cafe, where we enjoyed a velvety latte and espresso. We saw more Hunderwasser inspired tilework in Kaitaia.

More cow cud terraces, poop-a-dot fields, and treeless grazing slopes grace the landscape of the New Zealand northland. Mostly, there have been cows in the past few days, where we've mostly seen sheep since arriving in the southern part of New Zealand. We saw kanga-poo-ka-dot fields in Australia, and they were quite pronounced, as the field were parched golden, with green dots. Previously, the northland hills would have been forested, though dwarfed due to the wind.

In the early afternoon April 11 we reached the northern end of the northlands at the turbulent meeting of the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea.

There is wheelchair access to the lighthouse at the windy point, and Maori interpretive panels along the pathway. We've been reminded that the Hawaiian word for family is ohana; the Maori say whanau; and we've been trying to weave together many bits and pieces of our time in Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia and Indonesia. We learned at the northern most point of the north island that this is where some Maori spirits apparently return home to their family in Hawaiki. In 2003 at the Polynesian Cultural Centre at the north end of Oahu, we saw our first Maori haka, a similar performance to the spontaneous one we witnessed in Christchurch March 20 to show respect to the Muslim community devastated by the March 15 mosque atrocity. We've read more about the 2,000 unsettled claims arising from the colonial implementation of the Treaty of Waitangi and are reminded of first nations claims in Australia and Canada. The Treaty of Waitangi, which was prepared and passed in about a weeks time about 180 years ago, has two interpretations. The Maori version is about objective governance and land stewardship and the colonial version is about law enforcement and land ownership and transfer. An impossible communication gap seems to be revealed by the Treaty of Waitangi. Though attributed to anthropologist Edward Sapir, Yolanda first heard via the writings of architect Buckminster Fuller that "Language is Culture", and as such, some concepts are not transferable between languages; others transfer beautifully. Speaking diverse languages fluently, one would think, might enable people to celebrate, not just be "tolerant of" diverse cultures. Quite quickly after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, it became clear that the Maori expectations of the Treaty were not going to be acknowledged by the tsunami of colonialists. With our Malaysian, Indonesian, Australian, and New Zealand experiences and awareness, we are reminded that we are hoping to make a return visit to Winnipeg to again visit the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, which we first visited on leg two of our bicycle ride across Canada (maybe to also participate in the Winnipeg Tweed Ride). A return visit to the Canadian Museum for Human Rights would be another chance to reconcile some of what we have been exposed to.

We took a chance at the steep road down to Stormy Beach camp and found it safe, though we saw one mini-van was off the road, kept aloft on the cliff by some sturdy, dwarf trees. Later in the evening we found out from the camp host that the accident was the result of an altercation between two day use area visitors. They had zoomed off in two minivans after a fist fight, and almost hit a camper-van before one minivan crashed off the road. The camp host suddenly had to abandon the campsite to coordinate a rescue with the police and was thankful we had walked back to the gate to register, as it would take time to figure out who was and wasn't registered.

We were up early at Stormy Bay Beach camp April 12, and drove the steep road out to make breakfast at a 90 Mile Beach trail head. With the sunrise and rain, there were a few rainbows around, which was pleasant. We realized at breakfast that we have camped at NZ's most northern campsite (Stormy Bay) and most southern (Curio Bay). That's something! 90 Mile Beach was blowing sand into our eyes and mouth, and vehicles were zooming around, so we didn't stay long. We crunched the sand in our teeth as we walked back to the car - yuk. At the Bay of Islands we stopped at the Waitangi Treaty site. We missed the cultural performance, as we were a bit long in the museum and so a few minutes late for the start of the performance, so were not allowed in. The museum is extensive, and we only saw about half. We'll need to get back some time to read and hear more.

Yolanda's birthday dinner was a delicious Indian feast in Auckland. The owner gave a complementary slice of black forest cake, to which Bob added the other two candles from the pack of four we had purchased for his birthday February 22 in Coral Bay on the very beautiful Ningaloo Reef coast in northwest Australia.

Well, as they say, "that's all for now!" We're in transition and headed back to Canada over two days. Springtime in Victoria will be lovely! We'll keep on BLogging as we move through 2019, with an anticipated visit to do some birding in the southern part of the African continent in September and October.

2019 AU-NZ: New Zealand Napier to Uretiti April 6 - 10

By mid-day April 06 travelling northeast towards Napier, Bob remarked that the northern island of New Zealand is "not yet very remarkable." Maybe it is the overcast weather, similar to the Saanich Peninsula on a rainy, grey early October day. Also, we are close to going home, so we are starting springtime-activity-on-our-property talks, facilitated by happy springtime photos from our gardens via house-mates Katy & Frances (staying at our house for two UVic terms, September 2018 - April 2019).

Aotearoa (approximately pronounced, a-oh-tea-roh-a; and approximately translated, place of the long white cloud) is the current Maori name for New Zealand. In 1645, Dutch cartographers renamed the land Novia Zeelandia after their province of Zeeland. British navigator James Cook anglicized the name to New Zealand.

The population of Aotearoa (NZ) is 4.8 million, which is similar to the population of BC (4.9 million). About one third, or 1.6 million NZ people (Kiwis) live in Auckland, and the population of Kiwis on the whole south island is about 1.1 million.

We often see "Staff Wanted" signs on farms, on industrial buildings and in shop windows. We have read that it is apparently quite easy for Canadian young people to obtain a two-year visa and get work in NZ. Canadians aged 18-35 can apply for what is called a "working holiday visa", that gives young Canadians up to 24 months in New Zealand. After that, Canadians are sometimes able to apply for a "skilled migrant visa" that allows one to live and work in New Zealand indefinitely. BC's comparative minimum wage is $13.85 (June 1, 2019); NZ minimum wage is going to $17.70 July 1, 2019. BC is committed to reach $15.50 by 2021. Currently, $13.85 Canadian dollars is $15.35 New Zealand dollars. Petrol is about $2.20/liter, but distances are not huge; food is about the same as in BC (local products are a little less); as are camp fees, accommodation and sundries.

Our mid-day April 06 visit to Napier had more to experience than we had expected. There were far more Art Deco buildings than we had imagined - worth a return trip to Napier to see them all, and mid-February is their Art Deco Festival, with jazziness, and etc., as in the late 1920s & early 1930s.

Yolanda was pleased to learn that Napier is also a "Sea Wall: Artists for Oceans" project community! An avid supporter and coordinator of, and past participant in a number of community public art projects, she was reminded of the impact of public art! Also to explore further on that return trip to Napier!

In the late afternoon April 06, we drove to Whakapapa camp by 6:45pm. The camp is located in Tongariro NP, a UNESCO World Heritage site encompassing two active volcanoes and a steaming caldera. It was pouring rain so for $25 extra we took refuge in a camp bunk room, rather than put up our tent on wet ground and sleep under the deluge that was to dump down overnight. The campsite at Whakapapa is in the path of a "lahar", or volcanic mud flow from nearby active volcano Mount Ruapehu. In the event of an air raid siren, we are not to evacuate, but if the lahar advances a loudspeaker will announce (with "a whooping sound") that we are to :"evacuate the campground immediately." Comforted that things are relatively under control, we put our shoes near-by under the bunk.

Our first of two 7K walks April 07 was to see waterfalls. Part way into the walk it hailed a bit, but the walk was otherwise lovely.

We saw both sections of Taranaki Falls and enjoyed the colour of the underbrush, and the very nice stained glass at Chateau Tongariro, where the walk ended.

The Chateau was closed for a private function, so we walked back to the camp kitchen and made soup before heading off for our afternoon lake walk. At lunch, we had a good chat with a French bike touring couple, who told us about their 10-mo ride from L.A. to New York and about their current N.Z. Christchurch to Auckland ride. We told them about our three-part ride across Canada and our 9-day bike tour in France. It was super to be chatting about bicycle touring.

We had stopped by the regional i-site (pronounced eyesight ;-) by the campsite. The system of i-sites throughout New Zealand provides endless interpretive and ticketing options. In previous BLog posts we have referred to the i-sites as "interpretive centres" and said how much we appreciated the enthusiastic and helpful staff. The i-sites are extensive and have displays, learning videos, and National and Regional staff to help plan visits.

On our drive to Lake Rotopounamu, we saw geothermal plumes of steam gushing from many crevices near Mount Ngauruhoe. The lake walk was mostly through a lovely ancient forest, with a few beach sections. We saw and Bob photographed a few new-to-us birds, and near the end of the walk, we met Mark, who was retired from the park service and knew a lot about wildlife, including birds. Mark helped us to identify the sound of one bird we heard, but could not photograph, a Tui. We have a definitive Tui photo from previous, but hoped to get others.

Just before we arrived back to the car, lightning started and it began to hail shortly thereafter. The setting sun was brilliant across the landscape, raking under the black clouds and through the damp atmosphere, creating a full rainbow arc that could not fit into our picture frame. We ended the day up at the Whakapapa Gondola Project work site and then made a double dinner (two nights worth) at the camp kitchen and played two games of Bananagrams by the camp sitting room wood fire (built by the French bike touring couple).

We've only 5 full days of exploring left in New Zealand, and hope to reach the far northern tip of the north island, where birds are apparently plentiful. We have April 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, mostly to survey for a future return trip... maybe with our bicycles. That would be a nice pace, at about 80Kms/day!

April 08 we took the scenic circle route (via the Rangipo Desert Highway) from Tongariro NP to an estuary walk spot. However, the visibility en route was v.low and socked-in foggy beyond 500m. At one point we passed through fresh snow. It was, however, empty on the roads, so travel was quick to the Waiotaka River estuary near Tokaanu.

A short, but nice stroll at the estuary and weir netted no new species. Further along the route to Taupo, we did see three species of cormorant at a single stop: Pilated, Sooty and Spotted.

Orakei Koraku was a New Zealand geothermal spot we dropped by at the suggestion of Wellington Pippa and Peter. There is a little boat shuttle that takes visitors to the geothermal features boardwalk and a cave, and there is a nice cafe and shop. We couldn't fit in the boat ride and walk, but did have lunch and looked at the laughed about the kiwi stuffies in the gift shop.

We've been told most Kiwis (New Zealanders) have not seen kiwi birds. Not necessarily for the lack of kiwi birds, though that is an issue with the habitat devastation that is going on. It is that kiwi birds are nocturnal, and people don't go out in the forest at night. We've heard them from our tent, but not gone out in the dark. Sanctuary islands are where most people go to see Kiwi. These are kept free of introduced predators, such as rats, loose dogs, stoat, mice, loose cats and introduced competitors, such as starlings, industry, domesticated animals, tree and plant species, and etc. By 2050, New Zealand hopes to not only have sanctuary islands, but also for the country to be predator free. Competitor free will be another consideration.

Before reaching our Lake Okareka camp for the night, we stopped at two camps on Lake Rerewhakaatu, in case the Lake Okareka camp was full. Both Lake Rerewhakaatu camps were flooded, and Bob reported they had poor ratings on the internet, for various reasons. Bob took photos of Kingfisher and a pheasant, none-the-less. Once at Lake Okareka camp, we did an hour forest walk, but headed back to set up the tent before it was dark. After dinner we did a 40min night walk, but did not see kiwi birds.

Once the dew was dried from our tent fly and ground sheet we headed away April 09 from very beautiful Lake Okareka. We took a long-way-around route via the coast to the Cormandel Peninsula.

At Maketu, we learned about the 1340 arrival of the Maori Arawa canoe, watched fishermen and clam diggers and learned about the local Dotterel shorebird nesting area. After dottering a bit long, we needed to pick up groceries in a hurry in the town of Cormandel and then head directly to the Cormandel Peninsula DOC east coast camp we had chosen.

After an hour of winding, narrow (and in spots half-washed-out) coastal, then mountain roadways, we hit a road under construction. After about 3Kms on gravel, we were on tarmac again, but about 6Kms before the campsite we saw a notice saying the campsite was closed. In the dark, we drove back to the town of Cormandel and found a private site that was still open. A fortunate outcome of being on the route at sunset was seeing "the long white cloud" above Auckland, in the hues of the evening.

April 10 started well, with an anticipated visit to Seabird Coast, east of Auckland.

At the south end of the Coast, we happened across the Miranda Wetlands, managed by the Miranda Naturalists' Trust. It is an outstanding, extensive area. It includes a former fertilizer factory where seashells were burned and ground for "sweetening" farmland. There are remnant shell sandbars along the lagoons. We didn't have a chance to visit the interpretive centre due to a miscommunication about our picnic lunch, but did see posters for many shorebird events and course offerings. Maybe we'll plan to get back sometime.

We reached our Uretiti camp a bit earlier than expected, as the drive up through and beyond Auckland went relatively quickly, in spite of Auckland's rush hour traffic. Still it was dark when we arrived at camp, as daylight savings has resulted in 6pm sunsets in the past three evenings.

On our final two exploring days in New Zealand, April 11 & 12, we hope to learn more about the arrival of the first Maori canoes and more about the Treaty of Waitangi.