2018 S.E. Asia : Taman Negara, Penang, Singapore

October 21st – November 5th we have been exploring nature spots within Peninsular Malaysia, including northwest to Taman Negara, northeast to Penang and south to Johor Bahru and Singapore.

We returned to Bukit Fraser for one night before going to Taman Negara so that Bob could do a little early morning birding. His morning walk also included observations of White-thighed Surili, Dusky Leaf Monkey, and Siamang Gibbon.

The accommodation in Taman Negara, at Kuala Tahan was across the river within the park. The vehicle needed to be parked on an upper level in case there was flooding. Taman Negara was a very beautiful setting, and we crossed a river in a skiff to arrive at the accommodation. Boats were hired at the cost of One Malaysian Ringet each (~$.33 CDN each). At the lodge we noticed that tiger stuffies were placed in strategic spots to keep the monkeys away.

The next morning, Bob went on a birding day with a local birding guide, Roto.

Because of the low light and the dense jungle, it was not a brilliant day for photography, however, Bob still increased his life list of birds by 24 including Raffle's Malkoha, Asian Ferry Bluebird, Maroon Woodpecker, Red-naped Trogon, Cinnamon-rumped Trogon.

When leaving Kuala Tahan, prior to going up the Hornbill Valley, we stopped to get a funnel of gas from a motorbike shop!

In Penang, we were in another very beautiful setting in a fishing village near the jungle entrance. We had two days to explore: we hiked through the jungle to Turtle Beach on one day and went up Penang Hill via the tram the next day.

One of the highlight of the 5km slippery and somewhat steep at times hike to Turtle Beach conservation area was an impromptu hiring of a speedboat back 8km around the point to the start.

Bob was thrilled to document a number of new species at Penang Hill the next day, including the Black Giant Squirrel, Chestnut-breasted Mulkoha, Smaller Wood Nymph, and repeat but great displays from the Plain-throated Sunbird and Crimson Sunbird. The hill was a sentimental destination for locals.

In addition to bird spotting for Bob, Yolanda enjoyed, as always. her local interactions -the markets, the food, the young women, and the plants.

Our route south took us through the Cameron Highlands. The north section was rugged and expertly engineered, the middle was a commercial mecca and where the greenhouses and tea farms were located, and the south section was a harrowing drive on a twisting mountain broken road, though a gauntlet of forest dogs and locals selling their wares from crumbling lean-to shelters.

The Panti Bird Sanctuary near Johor Bahru was a bit of a fizzle, not just because of the drizzle of rain, and complications with Bob's camera lens due to the humidity. We had to cross two closed gates to get into the entrance of the Sanctuary and then we retreated once Bob’s translator ap let us know the two warning signs in red were about malaria mosquitoes and rat pee leptospirosis – yeah.

We stayed at a very nice place for a great rate - at the entrance was a coloured rice display for the upcoming Deepavali, or Indian Festival of Lights.

Instead of a second day at the Sanctuary, we hired a cab to take us to Singapore. The 12-hr day included 5 hrs in two 2 ½ hr border crossings, there and back. In the other 7hrs, we visited Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, Central Catchment Nature Reserve, Bukit Timah Hill Nature Reserve and the National Art Gallery of Singapore.

On our way home we stopped at Cape Recado overnight so we could do an early morning birding walk on November 5th. We headed out before 7am, but the lighting made it difficult to take photos.

We are in K.L. a couple of days to re-group for our November 8th to 18th trip to Sumatra and Java, and including a jungle hike to see Orangutan and a three day boating and river canoe trip to a UNESCO site.

FINISH: Yolanda finished her "Horizon" tapestry and has now woven the closing hem!